Syracuse

Syracuse's historic island centre is explored on lead between baroque palaces, shaded lanes and the seafront. Early in the morning, when the fishermen return and the squares are empty, it is one of Sicily's finest urban walks.

The rock-cut Greek theatre, the Ear of Dionysius and the latomie quarries form one of the Mediterranean's great ancient sites. Dogs are generally not admitted: visit in turns while your companion enjoys a break in the shade.

This freshwater spring at the sea's edge, planted with wild papyrus, has fed myths since antiquity: the nymph Arethusa is said to have turned into a fountain here. The overlooking belvedere and the neighbouring lungomare are freely walked on lead.

The marine reserve south of the city lines up limestone coves, crystalline water and coastal trails on the Maddalena peninsula. The paths are walked on lead; for dog swimming follow the signage, some coves restrict it in summer.

Ortigia's cathedral wraps around a 5th-century BC Doric temple of Athena, whose columns run through its walls. Dogs stay outside, but Piazza Duomo, a curve of white stone, is one of Italy's most beautiful urban drawing rooms.

The morning market on via de Benedictis overflows with citrus, fish and Sicilian cheeses in a joyful din of hawkers. Leashed dogs weave through without trouble outside peak hour; the counter sandwiches are worth the queue.