Rethymno

The Fortezza, a vast sixteenth-century Venetian citadel, crowns the Paleokastro hill above the sea with its ramparts, mosque and sweeping views. The open-air site is walked on the leash; bring water, as shade is scarce and the stone gets very hot in summer.

The old Venetian harbour, with its nineteenth-century Egyptian lighthouse and quay lined with fish tavernas, forms the city's most photographed scene. You stroll here on the leash along the water, among fishing boats and terraces, early in the morning or in the evening to avoid the crowds.

The Rimondi Fountain, a graceful 1626 Venetian fountain with lion heads, marks the heart of the old town, steps from the minaret of the Neratze mosque. The whole maze of lanes, shops and cafes is walked on the leash, in the welcome shade of the facades.

The town's long sandy beach runs east for several kilometres from the centre. Dogs are banned on the organised, supervised sections in summer, but the wilder stretches to the east tolerate them on the leash; the sand turns scorching at midday.

The Arkadi Monastery, some twenty kilometres to the south-east, is a national symbol of the Cretan resistance of 1866, with its Baroque facade set among the hills. Dogs are not allowed inside the monastery grounds, but the surroundings and nearby paths are walked on the leash.

To the south, the palm grove of Preveli lines a river flowing into the Libyan Sea, below the spectacular Kourtaliotiko gorge. The hike is done on the leash; plan for plenty of water, scarce shade and a long descent down to the beach.