Istanbul

The old Hippodrome square, between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, packs 2,000 years of history into the open air: obelisks, fountains and monumental facades. The esplanades can be walked on lead, though the mosques and museums stay closed to dogs.

Byzantine basilica, Ottoman mosque, museum and mosque again: Hagia Sophia sums up the city's history beneath its 31-metre dome. Dogs cannot enter the building; admire it from Sultanahmet park, where the city's cats hold court.

The strait dividing Europe from Asia is lined with miles of waterfront promenades, from Ortaköy to Bebek and Emirgan. City ferries accept small dogs in carriers: a mini-cruise between two continents for a few lira.

The car-free Princes' Islands are Istanbulites' favourite escape: pine woods, wooden mansions and quiet coves. Ferries admit dogs (small ones in carriers, large ones often tolerated leashed on the outer deck), and Büyükada lends itself to long walks.

North of the city, the Belgrad Forest spreads 5,500 hectares of oak and beech around old Ottoman reservoirs. It is Istanbul's great green lung, perfect for proper hikes with a dog, far from traffic, with marked trails and picnic areas.

Between Nişantaşı and the Bosphorus, this green valley is the city centre's best-loved dog park: lawns, shaded paths and a community of owners who gather morning and evening. A good base for exploring the smart neighbourhoods around it.