Saranda

The long pedestrian boulevard hugging the whole horseshoe bay, with palms, cafes and views across to Corfu, the heart of Sarandë life especially in the cool of the evening. Leashed dogs are welcome the length of it; walk early morning or after sunset in summer, as the concrete stores the heat.

A 16th-century Ottoman fortress perched on the hill south of town, giving the finest panorama over the bay, Ksamil and Corfu, and stunning at sunset. The grounds and open ramparts are freely walkable with a leashed dog; only the indoor restaurant room may be restricted.

A UNESCO-listed archaeological site 18 km south, layering a Greek theatre, a Roman forum, an early Christian baptistery and a Venetian fortress within a wooded lagoon, one of Albania's finest. Leashed dogs are allowed on the park's outdoor paths; bring water, as shade is scarce and summer days are punishing.

A deep-blue karst spring about 25 km east, its icy water welling up from an unknown depth in the heart of an oak forest. Leashed dogs are allowed on the trail and around the pool; swimming in the protected eye is forbidden, but the downstream streams let a dog cool its paws.

Open-air ruins in central Sarandë, where a 5th-century synagogue with remarkable floor mosaics was later converted into a Christian basilica, a rare witness to the town's ancient diversity. The fenced site can be viewed from its edge with a leashed dog; the mosaics are often covered off-season for protection.

A beach village 15 minutes south, famous for its small white-sand coves and swim-out islets, one of Albania's most photographed coastal landscapes. Packed and dog-unfriendly in July and August; come in the shoulder season (May, October) for quiet sand and calm coves.