Valbona

The Valbona Valley National Park protects one of the finest glacial landscapes in the Balkans, between clear river, forests and high limestone peaks. Dogs are welcome on the leash on the trails, but keep your distance from the livestock-guardian dogs watching the pastures.

The great hike over the pass between Theth and Valbona, above 1,800 m, is one of the most famous in the Balkans, a long day's walk in high mountains. A fit dog can do it on the leash, but the climb, the sun and the fast-changing weather call for water, care and an early start.

The Valbona river winds along the valley floor over a wide bed of white pebbles, between turquoise water and dry channels depending on the season. It is an ideal spot to let the dog cool off on the leash, away from the flocks and watching the current after rain.

The "Accursed Mountains", a range shared by Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro, raise around Valbona jagged peaks and wild cirques among the most remote in Europe. You hike here on the leash, fully self-sufficient, as there are no shops and no fast rescue at altitude.

The ferry crossing of Lake Koman, between sheer walls and narrow river arms, is the necessary gateway to Valbona and one of the finest boat journeys in Europe. Dogs are allowed aboard on the leash; book and arrive early, as space is limited in high season.

The bujtina, family guesthouses of wood and stone scattered through the valley, are the heart of Albanian mountain hospitality and are generally tolerant of dogs. You share home-cooked meals and set off from them for the hikes, dog on the leash from the doorstep.