Berat

A still-inhabited citadel crowning the hill, with cobbled lanes, Byzantine churches and ramparts giving a sweeping view over the Osum valley. Leashed dogs are welcome in the alleys and on the open-air ramparts; only the interiors (museums, churches) are closed to them.

The Ottoman quarter of the right bank, below the citadel, whose white houses with countless windows earned Berat its nickname. A picturesque on-leash stroll through steep cobbled lanes; head out early in the morning to avoid the heat and the crowds.

The quieter historic quarter of the left bank, linked to Mangalem by an old Ottoman stone bridge reserved for pedestrians. The bridge and the lanes of Gorica offer one of the finest views of the town and are ideal for on-leash dog walks.

An iconography museum set in the Church of the Dormition of St Mary, inside the citadel, devoted to the 16th-century master painter Onufri. An indoor museum: dogs are not admitted; plan to take turns or to leave your dog in the shade nearby.

The Osum river runs through Berat between Mangalem and Gorica, its tree-lined banks offering flat, shaded walks by the water. It is the most pleasant dog route in the hot hours, away from the steep lanes and baking cobbles.

Mount Tomorr, a sacred peak topping 2,400 metres, closes the horizon east of Berat and forms a national park of forests and trails. On-leash dog hikes in a wild setting; carry plenty of water and avoid the hottest hours in summer.