Gjirokastër

The huge medieval fortress crowning the hill, one of the largest in the Balkans, with ramparts and sweeping views over the Drino valley. Leashed dogs are allowed in the outdoor grounds and along the walls, but not inside the arms museum housed within.

The Old Bazaar, the cobbled heart of town, with steep pebble lanes lined with artisan workshops, cafes and carpet shops. Leashed dogs are welcome outdoors; watch for hot, slippery cobbles that are hard on paws in high summer.

The Zekate House, a spectacular triple-arched Ottoman tower mansion from 1811 with carved ceilings and decorated salons, one of the finest in Albania. The historic building cannot be visited with a pet, but the cobbled climb up to it already offers fine views.

The Cold War Tunnel, a vast underground bunker dug beneath the castle to shelter the authorities in case of nuclear attack, now open for guided tours. The narrow, dark underground space is not suitable for pets, which must stay above ground.

The Drino valley, a broad farming plain ringed by mountains and overlooked by the old town, crossed by tracks and scenic paths. Its edges suit long leashed walks, with splendid views of Gjirokastra clinging to its slope.

The Blue Eye, a deep-blue karstic spring welling up in open countryside about an hour's drive away, a classic day trip from Gjirokastra. The outdoor site can be walked on a leash, but letting dogs swim in the spring is discouraged to protect the reserve.