Best season
AprilโMay and October are ideal: 18โ24 ยฐC, dry, sea swimmable from late May, dog-tolerant beaches uncrowded, caldera villages breathing again. Avoid JulyโAugust absolutely (30โ35 ยฐC, 50k+ daily tourists, asphalt 60 ยฐC, dogs banned from most caldera-edge restaurants). NovemberโMarch is mild but many tavernas and hotels close.