Hvar

The Spanish fortress overlooks Hvar town and the Pakleni islands from its spur planted with pines and agaves. The switchback climb from the old town works very well on lead, ideally early in the morning: the panorama over the rooftops and the archipelago is the finest on the island.

Dalmatia's largest square stretches from the cathedral to the harbour, framed by the Venetian arsenal and its historic theatre. Leashed dogs wander freely over the polished flagstones; the cathedral does not admit them, but many surrounding terraces welcome them with a bowl of water.

Facing Hvar harbour, this string of pine-covered islets hides turquoise coves and shaded paths. The water taxis generally accept dogs, especially small ones, ask the skipper before boarding; off season, the beaches of Palmižana lend themselves well to a dog swim.

The ancient Greek Pharos, at the head of its deep bay, is calmer than Hvar town: blond stone lanes, a shaded riva and Tvrdalj, the fortified house of the poet Petar Hektorović. An ideal on-lead wander, between quayside cafes and cool alleys.

The farmland between Stari Grad and Vrboska preserves the 4th-century-BC Greek land division intact: dry-stone walls, vines, olive trees and Romanesque chapels. Its flat, quiet lanes are perfect for long on-lead walks, with wine tastings in the village cellars.

This hillside stone hamlet was the lavender capital of the Adriatic: in June and July the terraced fields perfume the whole slope. The trail down to Milna and the sea makes a fine on-lead hike, among low walls, rosemary and views of the Pakleni islands.