Conil de la Frontera

Conil's main town beach unrolls its golden sand at the foot of the village, where the Rio Salado meets the ocean. As on Andalusia's supervised beaches, dogs are banned during the summer bathing season; from October to Easter, however, it becomes a vast low-tide walking ground.

Conil's most celebrated beach, lined with chiringuitos famous for grilled fish, stretches towards the low cliffs to the north. Off limits to dogs in summer like all the town's bathing beaches, it becomes a superb off-season walk again, and the Cadiz province keeps designated dog beach areas a few kilometres away.

This 14th-century keep, a remnant of the Guzman castle, once served as a lookout for the almadraba and Barbary raids. The climb inside is done without dogs, but the small square around it, the Patio de la Villa and the neighbouring white lanes make a lovely on-lead stroll, especially at golden hour.

The old fishermen's quarter wraps around the former chanca, the hall where almadraba tuna was salted, now a cultural centre devoted to this thousand-year-old fishery. Its low lanes, flowered patios and white walls are freely explored with a leashed dog, in real quiet once you leave the shopping streets.

North of La Fontanilla, a coastal path runs along ochre clifftops to the Roche coves and their little lighthouse. This is Conil's great dog walk: on lead along the trail, with superb Atlantic views and wild coves below; start early in summer and keep clear of the cliff edge in strong wind.

Tucked beneath the Roche cliff, the little fishing port still lands the coast's catch every day, and bluefin tuna when the spring almadraba season comes. The breakwater and quays make a lovely salty on-lead walk, colourful boats on one side and coves on the other.