Sète

The summit dominating the singular island at 175 metres offers an immense panorama over the town, the lido, the Thau lagoon and, on clear days, the Pyrenees. The climb via the upper quarter's staircases then the Pierres Blanches forest is a superb on-lead walk, best done in the cool hours.

The town's watery main artery lines up colourful facades, fishing boats and the pontoons of the jousting societies, whose champions clash all summer with lance and shield. The quays are ideal for an on-lead stroll, and the quayside terraces often accept well-behaved dogs at the foot of the tables.

The town beach dear to Brassens opens the long sandy lido running to Marseillan. Dogs are banned in the summer season from the supervised zones: fall back on the undeveloped stretches of the lido towards the Triangle de Villeroy, early in the morning, and on the whole sand bar off season.

The great lagoon with its shellfish beds feeds Bouzigues, Mèze and Marseillan, oyster-farming villages where you taste oysters and mussels facing the water. The shores and little ports make good on-lead walks, and many tasting shacks accept dogs on their terraces.

The museum devoted to the town's most famous son plays his voice through headphones along a moving trail, opposite the Py cemetery where he rests. Dogs do not enter the museum: take turns visiting, as the neighbouring Simone-Veil park offers pleasant shaded waiting.

Sète's belly overflows with tielles, Bouzigues oysters, fish from the auction and counters where you snack amid joyful hubbub. As in all covered food markets, dogs do not enter: the terraces of the neighbouring streets let you enjoy your purchases together.