Trapani

The pedestrian spine of old Trapani runs between baroque palaces, a covered market and facades on the sea spur. Everything happens outdoors on a leash: the morning market, aperitivo and the stroll to San Lorenzo cathedral.

The historic salt pans, their windmills and the WWF reserve form a flat lagoon where flamingos and stilts pass through. Open-air dyke paths, dogs on a leash: very exposed to the sun, so bring water and visit early or at sunset.

The cable car climbs from Trapani to Erice in ten minutes with a panorama over the salt pans and the Egadi Islands. Dogs kept leashed and muzzled are allowed in the cabin: a muzzle is required, and it is best to travel outside peak hours.

The medieval town perched at 750 metres, cobbled lanes, the castle of Venus and ramparts in the mist. Reach it on foot or by cable car and walk it entirely on a leash: the ground is slippery in damp weather, so bring water and shady breaks.

The 17th-century Spanish tower marks the far tip of the sickle, between two seas, with one of Sicily's finest sunsets. The mole and the seafront path are walked on a leash, very windy and shadeless.

From the port, hydrofoils and the ferry serve Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo, with crystal-clear water. Dogs kept leashed and muzzled are allowed aboard: Favignana is explored by bike or on foot among coves and old tuna traps.