Trogir

The Cathedral of St Lawrence, the jewel of the UNESCO old town, opens through the Romanesque portal carved by Radovan in 1240, the finest on the Adriatic. Dogs are not admitted inside the building or the bell tower, but the portal and Ivana Pavla II square are best admired on lead early in the morning.

Kamerlengo fortress, raised by Venice in the 15th century, locks down the western tip of the islet and its wall-walk gives the finest view over the rooftops, the channel and Čiovo. An open-air site, it generally admits leashed dogs; in summer, the open-air stage can close access in the evening.

Trogir's Riva runs along the channel beneath the palms, past yachts, terraces and Venetian facades, from the town gate to Kamerlengo fortress. Wide and flat, it is the obvious dog walk morning and evening; many cafés bring out a water bowl without being asked.

Across the bridge, the island of Čiovo lines up pine woods, coves and pebble beaches far quieter than the historic islet. Away from the main bathing zones, several stretches tolerate dogs, notably towards Okrug and Slatine; go early in summer and bring portable shade.

The central square gathers the cathedral, the medieval loggia, the clock tower and the town hall within a few metres: all of Trogir in a single polished-stone stage set. Leashed dogs wander freely here; come before 9am in summer, as the square then fills with day-trippers from Split.

Right opposite the mainland bridge, this historic garden of the Garagnin family, one of Dalmatia's earliest classical gardens, mixes shaded paths, citrus trees and lapidary remains. It is the only real patch of greenery steps from the old town, perfect for a cool break with a leashed dog.