Saint-Tropez

The yachts moored before the ochre facades and legendary cafes form the most famous scene on the French Riviera. An on-lead stroll along the quays is a delight in the early morning, when the fishermen sell their catch and the crowds are still asleep.

The 17th-century fortress overlooks the gulf from its hill planted with umbrella pines, where peacocks and goats roam free. The outer slopes and rampart walk can be explored on lead with a superb view; the keep museum itself stays closed to dogs.

From the Portalet tower to Pampelonne around the Saint-Tropez cape, this old customs path strings together coves, russet rocks and hidden villas over a dozen kilometres. Leashed dogs welcome year round: it is the finest outing on the peninsula.

Beneath century-old plane trees, the Place des Lices lives to the rhythm of petanque and its big Tuesday and Saturday morning market. Leashed dogs naturally join the wander between the stalls, and the surrounding cafes welcome them on their terraces.

Five kilometres of fine sand built Saint-Tropez's beach legend, between mythical beach clubs and protected dunes. In summer dogs are banned from most of the shore; from October to April the beach becomes a huge walking ground again, with some clubs then tolerating well-behaved dogs.

The old fishermen's quarter, with its little square, small shingle beach and pastel lanes, is the most authentic corner of the village. Perfect for an on-lead wander away from the port, with a canine dip possible off season at La Ponche beach.