Plovdiv

The Roman Theatre of Philippopolis, a second-century amphitheatre cut into the hill, still hosts concerts and shows. An open-air site, leashed dogs are welcome on the tiered terraces outside performance evenings, with a superb view over the city and the Rhodope mountains.

The Old Town climbs three cobbled hills lined with the painted houses of the Bulgarian National Revival, their colourful upper floors jutting over the street. The lanes are walked on the leash; the interiors of the house-museums do not accept dogs, but the courtyards and facades alone are worth the climb.

The Kapana creative district, a maze of artists' studios, shops and bars, is the city's hip heart. Its terraces are happy to welcome dogs, ideal for a shaded break between visits to the nearby Old Town.

The Roman stadium of Philippopolis, over 200 metres long, sleeps beneath the main pedestrian street; its tiered end is seen from Dzhumaya Square. The exposed section is admired on the leash in the open air, amid the bustle of the main shopping street.

The hill of Nebet Tepe, cradle of the Thracian city more than six thousand years ago, keeps imposing rampart ruins at the top of the Old Town. The site is open and free to enter on the leash, offering one of Plovdiv's finest sunsets over the roofs and the plain.

The Tsar Simeon Garden, a large downtown park, unrolls shaded avenues, flower beds and a lake set with singing fountains that light up at night. You stroll here on the leash, a cool and lively stop a stone's throw from the pedestrian street and Kapana.